First Impressions

Papaya Thai recently opened in a corner of the Safeway centre at Lindsay and University, occupying a space that formerly held an unsuccessful diner, and before that, a fish restaurant primarily noteworthy for sometimes having a huge brass lobster in front.

The new owners have done a tasteful, if slightly ornate job of decorating.  Each table is draped with brightly coloured placemats and fake flowers, and the typical tourist-board posters on the walls are cleanly set up, distracting from the obligatory TV in a corner set playing the same DVD forever.  There are only two major style issues to note: an open service counter makes it possible to see collected dishes and the window into the kitchen, and the booths have been implemented with wicker loveseats.  While cute, these are surprisingly awkward to get in and out of due to their arms.

The Menu

Like many Thai restaurants, Papaya offers a “build-it-yourself” menu, where most of the basic dishes and curries can be ordered with a selection of different meats.  I noticed that they offered more curries than many other places we’ve tried, but comparatively few noodle dishes.  They had a dedicated vegetarian-option section, which is no doubt appreciated by mixed parties, but only a handful of non-Thai options for the less adventuresome.  They’re clearly committed to the concept, where other places try to become ‘Asian’ instead.

Food

The waitress brought us small cups of a chicken-based soup before our food came.  The soup was surprisingly complex, with an array of vegetables and shredded chicken, and would make an excellent offering as a main course.

We started with satay skewers.  While the chicken had an appealing savory seasoning, its texture was slightly rubbery, suggesting the use of frozen chicken.  The peanut sauce had a pungent aroma.

I chose the Masumam curry for an entree.  The potatoes seemed a bit hard, as though undercooked, but the onions and pork were well cooked, and the sauce was well-balanced:  mild, without that annoying lemongrass or basil tang that seems to be the ’standard Thai flavour.’  It was served over a somewhat sticky white rice which helped to add bulk to the thin sauce.

Service

While the waitress was generally prompt and attentive, an embarrassing situation developed when only two small pots of rice were supplied for six people.  Our drinks were generally kept full, and she seemed fully accomodating to odd requests for drinks and specific spicing levels.

Conclusion

Papaya Thai shows a lot of potential for a new restaurant.  Most things are functioning well, and I’d expect further improvement after a few more months to optimize the menu to the dishes they do best, and find the rhythm of service.  I hope they can do better than the last occupants of this seemingly cursed location.